Maytag Ice2O French Door Refrigerator/Freezer Repair 

Models MFI2568AEW, MFI2568AEB or MFI2568AES

Welcome to my Maytag Ice2O Flashing Lights and Flapping Ice Door repair page.  This page was published in late July 2007, and updated on 12/18/07.

Here are repair instructions I created documenting my attempt at fixing the High Voltage (HV) Control Board in my Maytag fridge.  They worked for me, maybe they'll work for you too and save you the hassles of waiting for the repair man, then the repair part.  Or perhaps the $350+ this might cost has you thinking "there has to be a better way".  Perhaps it will help you get your fridge repaired this month rather than next.....

You need to know how to solder, or know how to find someone who can and con them into doing this with you.  The parts cost is <$5 at Radio Shack presuming you have soldering equipment, <$20 if you need to get the equipment from Radio Shack.

In any case, if you use this, you accept the info as-is without any warrantee from me.  If this doesn't fix your fridge, or worse, something doesn't work right and you blow up your house, don't blame me.  Melodramatic perhaps, but we live in a litigious society.  So I'm limiting my maximum liability for anything that might, or does happen, or you tell me might happen as a result of these instructions to the equivalent of US$0.01, and I'll send it to you after you send me a stamped, self addressed envelope.  Got it ? ;-)

The above model numbers cover the White, Black and Stainless Steel versions respectively.

Go click on the fridge and see what's inside.  File is 828kb (lots of pics) so might take a few minutes on dial-up.  Saving over $350 is worth the wait.

If it does work for you, give yourself a pat on the back, then you should go out and do something nice for someone else and then everyone's a bit better off....

And while you're at it, send me an email at the below ID to let me know how you make out or if you notice that something needs to be changed or updated in the doc. I'd also be interested in hearing in what city/state/country you live to know how far this has reached (if you want to share).

Apologies for the non-clickable email ID here, but I find if I publish email IDs on a web page the spammers get it in less than a week, so the graphic version is needed.  (That's the letter "O" not number zero before the @ sign.)

With thanks to Samurai Appliance Repair Man and this specific repair thread.  Without the insight contained on his site, I'd never have given this a try. 

And like the Samurai Appliance Repair Man, if you feel this How-To has helped you in some way, saved a freezer full of food, earned you brownie points with your spouse (yes - both guys and gals have reported success with this), or otherwise been of value to you, feel free to spot a token donation.

Many thanks.
   - Steve

September 2016 Update:

Inquiries are down to only one every few months - I guess most folks have either fixed their fridge or replaced it. It's dropped off Google's results, probably because it's not "mobile friendly" and I'm not about to redo this page to make it so. One user reported that Maytag is no longer offering a replacement board as they have gone obsolete (something about the Tiwan factory destroyed in one of the typhoons that went thru), and I can't find any sellers of a new board - only "reconditioned" boards, likely who are doing the very same thing you're about to attempt.

In the meantime, I've similarly repaired a Samsung 32" LCD, and am about to tackle my 52" LCD. All were bought around the 2006/2007 timeframe so if you have an appliance or other electronic device refusing to turn on, or doing other weird things, chances are it's the caps in the power supply going bad. Go ahead - open it up and see if the caps are puffed up. You've got nothing to loose as it's not working now...

January 2014 Update:

Well, it's been quite a while since I last posted to this site and the inquiries/replies coming back from owners has slowed to a trickle - a good thing. Interesting to see the hits are over 6,700 now, so this must be useful.

The How-To still maintains a 100% success rate for those who responded with a result from its use. Respondents have been across the US, into Canada, and even the Caribbean. Wow. Glad it helped so many over the last 7 1/2 years. :-)

I did a quick web search to see what's out there on this problem and it appears that this is still an issue with these fridges, but owners are reporting that Maytag is addressing the issue free of charge out of warranty when owners call the number in the Dec 2007 Update (800-253-1301). Here's a link to the latest page (#18) of this thread on so you can see how others have fared.

Your choice - Fix it if you need to, get Maytag to get you a new board if you can wait.


January 2008 Update:

Due to the 900+ hits since July (sad that this is such a problem), this is now hosted on a service rather than my old PII400 home web server. It should be faster and more reliable now.

December 2007 Update:

Many thanks to the interesting stories you have passed on to me of your personal experiences with this guide. So far, reports are at a 100% success rate, with probably a notable up-tick in sales of capacitors at Radio Shack.

A couple of kind readers have submitted an added tip that seems to be easier in stopping the "flapping/flashing" noise: take off the plastic cover on top left door hinge (1 screw) and disconnect the wires running down to the door. This powers off the whole front assembly so the flashing also stops. Thanks for the feedback !

It is also noted that calling Maytag (800-253-1301) seems to get much more recognition of this problem, and readers have reported getting a new HV board shipped to them for free for installation by a local tech. Reports vary of both free an/d for fee labor to install it.

By the looks of the page counter at right, I figure I've saved Maytag quite a number of totally irate phone calls ....  ;-)

In operation since late July 2007

(c) 2007-2014 Stephen Beck

Latest Version: V1.0